 
The upper trunnion is one of the more problematic areas on the 1963 and earlier Rambler American. In this article, the frame and mounting plate for the passenger-side suspension on our 330 were cracked, and the plans for rebuilding the front suspension were, well, suspended. Ruby, the 440H has a fabulous frame. Her upper trunnions, though, were showing some wear. The main problem was the bolt that goes through the upper trunnion. Here is a slightly used one I found that is in better shape:
Notice how there is grease coming out of the hole in the center of the upper trunnion bolt? Well, the passageway can easily become clogged. Further, the bolt becomes seized to the upper trunnion with rust. The upper trunnion is supposed to pivot on this bolt. Once the bolt seizes, it is impossible to get grease through the bolt, and eventually the whole upper trunnion is quite disfunctional. I have seen very few upper trunnion kits around. There are quite a few lower trunnion rebuild kits around, but the upper trunnion is a nasty part to have go on you. When the trunnion doesn't pivot on the bolt, then the only other thing that can pivot is the bolt connection to the control arm, which is not correct, and causes wear on the upper control arm. Grease that bolt before it is too late. Another problematic thing is the pin that holds the nut on the top of the steering pin:
There are two screw holes in the side of the upper trunnion that you use to drive the pin out. Be careful, as the pin bends easily, and has a split in it so that it stays in place better. I munged the one on the 330 up pretty badly; however, this time I was able to drive it out and back in again with little pain. Do not pry the pin with a screwdriver. I figured that wedging a screwdriver between the edge of the trunnion and the pin would work, but it doesn't. The best tool I found to drive the pin, at least considering the tools I have, was a hex wrench that just fit into the hole in the end of the bolt.
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